They say when you spend too much time in Hawaii, you start to suffer from the effects of “Hawaiian time”. Meaning, nothing seems too pressing or important when there are more important things, like surfing or barbecuing, on the agenda. I will use this as my excuse for not writing a blog since returning from Maui.
I was in Maui to spend time with Clay Marzo, a fascinating 19-year-old surfer we will be featuring in the magazine soon. This is, without a doubt, one of the most interesting stories I’ve worked on, and I feel privileged to get to tell his story. Hopefully this will be the first of many pieces I write on Clay. Stay tuned.
Also, while I was in Maui, I hooked up with four of the most amazing, badass chicks I know and went paddle surfing with them. Maria Souza, Andrea Moller and Dustin Tester–who runs the Maui Surfer Girls camps–are the only all-female team towing into Jaws. That’s right. They tow-surf Jaws, one of the nastiest big-wave spots in the world. Nicole is a photographer who has documented their journey over the past four years. I can’t believe more people aren’t aware of these women, but I’m hoping to change that. Nicole took some fun photos of our surf session, and I’ll post them as soon as she sends them to me. (Hint, hint.)
While we’re on the subject of surfing, one of my favorite writers (and in yet another example of the Weird Wide Web, my Facebook friend), Allan Weisbecker, is doing some really neat things with the publishing of his most recent book, Can’t You Get Along With Anybody?. If you click here, you can download a free e-Book. He decided, since “writing the book nearly killed me, three times,” it was more important to him for folks to read the book than for him to make money. I think that is pretty damn cool.
Also, if you want to read about his most recent brush with death, click here. Pretty trippy stuff.